anne's first guest post

After years of Thaba saying that I should come to Delhi, I finally arrived on Saturday night. I would highly recommend the Pensione Niedzwiecki Sayo to anyone traveling through these parts. But I didn't really decide to post on how amazing the apartment is, how comfy the beds are or how wonderful it is to see Delhi courtesy of John the Driver. No, I wanted to share some thoughts on Delhi as this is my first trip back to India since I volunteered in Hyderabad twelve years ago.

I'd like to title this post: Another Roadside Attraction

Fortunately, I've spent enough time around Indian men to know that they aren't all depraved. (Yes, when my first post starts with a statement like this, you know it's going to be good.) In fact, if I had to generalize, let it be said from the outset that I'd be happy to go with charming and handsome. At the same time, I've been to a lot of different countries, but the only ones where I've ever been groped or grabbed in the street are India and Japan. Not looking to increase that count, but I have a new experiene to add to the depraved list, though I'm not even sure how to describe it...

You see, I decided to leave the lovely Golf Links enclave and walk about 1km along Lodi Road to visit Safdarjang's Tomb. It was the last great Mughal monument to be built and having a lot of interest in the Mughal courts, the architecture and because I just read an epic book about the Last Mughal Emporer, I thought it would be a good idea.

As a tall, blue-eyed, blonde, I am used to getting a lot of stares in Asia. I can handle that. It's not like anyone is going to mistake me for a local. I also don't mind being asked "my good name" or what country I am from. I appreciate the warmth and curiousity behind the questions. Admittedly, Indian folks look at me like I'm on crack when I ask them what country they are from, but I like how quick and proud they are to say where they are originally from in this amazing land and tell you a bit about it.

So... staring, the odd question. I kind of expect that. Tell me, am I being unreasonable to think it's a bit depraved for a man to stop his bicycle, pull his, uh, "equipment" from his pants and play with himself as I walk by? 'Cause that's what happened on the way to Safdarjang's tomb. It seemed a bit odd to me when I realized what was happening, depraved in fact, but maybe I'm just not that creative. I mean, I often ride my bike around Toronto, but I can tell you that it has never remotely crossed my mind that perhaps, you know, just to just spice up the trip, that roadside masturbation would be a good idea. Or is this something everyone does but no one talks about? My vote is still for depraved.

In case you're wondering how I reacted to this, let me tell you that I don't know much Hindi but I do know how to swear. I looked straight ahead, snarled "bechod" as I passed him and kept on walking.

One more thing about walking around in Delhi. I did feel it was a minor miracle that I managed to cross the street and not get run over in traffic. I felt like I was six years old, crossing the street by myself for the first time but with the knowledge there was no way in "H - E - double hockey sticks" that any of the vehicles were going to stop for anyone or anything.

There's a lot of it, but it's worth venturing out into it the traffic for the variety alone. There are an incredible number of Japanese imports - rare twelve years ago, now the norm. (India has been good to Toyota.) The traditional Ambassadors, autorickshaws, cycle rickshaws, bicycles, motobikes. In addition to people, you may also come across stray dogs (lots of stray dogs), wandering cattle or monkeys crossing the road. It's exciting and terrifying in equal measure. Like the roller coasters at Canada's Wonderland, but without federal safety standards. Much like at home, there are lines on the road, but here they are largely decorative. It's as if someone thought, "Hey these yellow and white lines LOOK great." Like modern art. Or something. For all the difference these straight lines make, they could just have enlisted Jackson Pollock to do his thing... but one thing you can say about India, whether it's the walk to Safdarjang's tomb, the traffic or the stray dogs, it's never boring.

[Delhi-9-March-2009]